Smokey's Barbecue

A trip to Smokey's, on the southern edge of Fort Worth, is quite the event. Especially at lunchtime on Sunday: That's when you'll find Richard Don Simms strumming "Ain't She Sweet" or "Has Anybody Seen My Gal?" on his banjo, right by the front door. (That's a fine how-do-you-do!)

Order a combo at the front, then help yourself to the salad bar, where you'll find a fine-chopped coleslaw and eggy potato salad that's at once smooth and chunky. (Or get a family pack by the pound, with three sides.) Take a seat at one of the long communal tables, and they'll bring over your food. Pitmaster Paul Calhoun's brisket was almost wonderful the day I tried it, absolutely luscious, with just the right perfectly rendered fattiness, marvelous texture and a well-defined smoke line. Unfortunately, it was undersalted. Naturally, it benefited from a drizzle of sauce, which was served hot, a nice touch. The generous ribs more than made up for the flaw in the beef, with a light, slightly spicy, slightly sweet glaze and smoky, t (Full review)