THE BEST IN DFW : Cocktails, new restaurants 2011.
The quirky cocktail den in the up-and-coming Cedars neighborhood has a new chef, Kyle McClelland, who’s in the process of remaking the menu with a more seasonal approach. Cocktail guru Michael Martensen’s drinks are smashing and sophisticated. Full bar.
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Not surprisingly, when this groovy cocktail den-slash-restaurant opened in February with consulting chef John Tesar in charge of the menu and the stoves, the food (hamachi ribs; octopus-chorizo-celery leaf salad; beef tongue sliders with salsa verde; lobster potpie), was original, stylish and decidedly delicious. Surprisingly, when he left and sous-chef Steven Starns took over the kitchen, the level of the cooking remained high.
Now the restaurant has a talented new chef, Kyle McClelland, who comes by way of Boston and New York. His dishes, like duck confit on braised greens with black garlic gel and spinach emulsion, or crisped ruby red trout fillets on a ragout of chanterelles, English peas, corn and haricots verts with parsnip purée, are among the most compelling in town.
It’s a funky spot whose dining room is perplexingly uncomfortable, but it’s got a winning personality, dandy cocktails (created by barman and co-owner Michael Martensen) and a great vibe.
1326 S. Lamar St., Dallas. 214-928-7700. thece (Full review)
This is a magnet for mixology south of downtown, thanks to cocktail evangelist Michael Martensen and his crew of fedora-wearing stirrers and shakers. The cocktail menu is part historical document, part manifesto. It's also well-priced ($8 to $14) and includes hallowed delights such as the Brandy Crusta, Martinez, Negroni and Sazerac. The punch bowls, at $50 and $60, are a hit — bottle service for an indentured generation. The patio is stark, but has interesting views back to the skyline. 7/28 (Full review)
With a list of cocktails that goes on for pages and pages, divided into seasonal cocktails, seasonal punches, pre-Prohibition, Prohibition, Repeal, Tribute Cocktails (original concoctions from famous bars around the country) and “the usual suspects,” i.e. classics, the Cedars Social is the superstore for great cocktails.
The spring menu included such treats as the Vaya Con Dios, a frothy concoction with tequila, mescal, passion fruit juice, egg white and Oaxacan chocolate bitters, and a Martinez, a pre-Prohibition classic with gin, red vermouth, maraschino liqueur and bitters. A few days ago, Cedars introduced its summer menu, with lots of promising-looking potions: Rio Star Rush features Plantation rum, Falernum, orgeat syrup, grapefruit juice and bitters; Mexican Monk blends tequila, green Chartreuse, serrano chile, lime and agave nectar.
We could probably just point out that Cedars uses Pierre Ferrand Cognac in its sidecar and leave it at that. It is not a place for a drink in a hurry: These bartend (Full review)
The Cedars Social, a sceney new cocktail den in the suddenly vibrant if marginally desolate Cedars neighborhood south of downtown, has a little secret: The food that comes out on those small plates is pretty darn compelling.
It shouldn’t be surprising that an establishment that hired chef John Tesar to create its menu would have some level of commitment to serving good food, but Cedars’ carefully managed vibe downplays the gastronomy thing. One night I asked about the deviled eggs. “They’re just ordinary deviled eggs,” the waiter said, shrugging and looking bored. I didn’t order them. (Full review)