Yutaka Sushi Bistro

A wizened cook gently fans the embers on a Japanese charcoal grill behind a rustic bar, hitting a paper fan rhythmically against his wrist for just the right wind level. So much attention for the couple of skewers he's grilling! It seems it'll take forever to serve everyone, even though there are only 10 or 12 people in the small lounge. But somehow it doesn't, and the "classic" Kurobuta pork kushiyaki skewers that soon appear before us are fabulous - gorgeously grilled and tender, with a deep, smoky, porky flavor. (Full review)

Yutaka Yamato’s 5-year-old sushi bar is the spot for sashimi and sushi expertly fashioned from fabulous fish from Japan, such as shima aji (striped jack), kintoki (red bull’s eye snapper) and isaki (grunt), depending on what’s in season and available. His Spanish mackerel is beautifully marinated; his uni spectacular, and when he serves a hand roll, it’s wrapped in wonderfully crisp nori. Yutaka’s nigiri sushi is excellent in the formal sense: Each piece is small enough to pop in one’s mouth in a single bite, the fish is well-cut and the sushi rice — served slightly warm — is beautifully seasoned, with the right delicate vinegar twang. Fresh wasabi is sometimes available.

But Yutaka is about more than sushi: Yamato’s modern, creative dishes like seared foie gras set atop braised daikon or black cod sui mai with karashi miso vinaigrette can be stunningly good. (Full review)