Pyramid Restaurant and Bar

Twenty years ago in New York, for a profile I was writing of David Bouley, one of that city’s most revered chefs, I got to spend some time in the kitchen of his restaurant, Bouley. I watched as the chef passed from station to station inspecting the work his line (Full review)

André Natera, The Pyramid Restaurant
Over the past year, this fine young chef, a native of El Paso in love with his hotel rooftop garden, has made remarkable things happen in the kitchen at the Pyramid. His starters can be astoundingly good, like a salad of peeled, lightly blanched heirloom cherry tomatoes topped with a delicate celery salad that slayed me last summer; set atop a silky tapenade, it was paired with a wedge of Texas blue cheese, resulting in an enchanting alchemy. Lately, a pitch-perfect dish of gyoza-style foie gras dumplings in a spicy sauce accented with Thai herbs was absolutely smashing and original. His main courses are just as wonderful, whether roasted cod with a perfect caper beurre blanc and deep-flavored tomato marmalade, or rosy slices of peanut-crusted duck breast set atop udon in a rich, peanutty sauce. (Full review)